3 years ago1,000+ Views
Crown moulding can be a bit tricky because the corners have to be cut so precisely. But that doesn't mean you shouldn't tackle a project like this because the rewards of doing it and finishing it are enough to make you smile from ear to ear. On top of that, when you're done, you'll be able to hang beautiful artwork from the moulding itself--saving you from patching holes from nails down the road.

Supplies Needed:

-moulding with curved top that fits your picture hook
-picture hook (Rail hangers made of brass can be found online or specialty hardware stores)
-strap hangers (for mounting on the back of picture frames to attach the wire)
-22 gauge non-tarnish brass wire

Optional Materials:

-duct tape (helpful during a dry fit when working with less hands)
-wood glue (if you are joining together different pieces of moulding)


-nail gun or hammer with a nail set
-miter saw
TIP: Buy your hooks first, then go to the store and get the moulding that fits. Even if they don't have "rail moulding", it is possible to find something similar that will work just fine.
Step One: Glue together your strips of moulding before trimming and installing. To get started, glue together the lengths of moulding (before trimming them) so they can be installed in one piece. To do this, simply run a bead of wood glue along the pencil moulding and use duct tape as a clamp to attach it to the other strip of moulding. Make sure to wipe down any seeping glue right away or it will harden and become almost impossible to remove.
Step Two: Always cut the moulding a bit longer than you think you need it. It might mean lots of trips back to the miter saw, but it's better to take your time than to trim a board too short. You may end up needing to recut your angles because...
Step Three: Your walls may not be square, 90-degree angles, so don't assume they are! You will have to adjust the angle to maybe 42 degrees, instead of the standard 45 degrees. Don't be dismayed, you got this!
Step Four: When tweaking the angle of your cuts to ensure a good fit in the corners, both pieces of moulding must be cut to the same angle. If you cut one piece to a 50 degree angle, but leave the other angle at a 45, they will not match up when fit together. They must be cut to the same angle, such as 48 and 48 degrees.
Step Five: Do a dry fit before painting and installing the trim. We used duct tape to hold the moulding up to check out the joints as we trimmed each length of moulding. We didn't leave the duct tape up for very long, so it didn't leave any marks on our walls.
Step Six: Use a level when installing the moulding— don't rely on paint lines or chalk lines.
Step Seven: Nail the moulding into studs. These rails should be capable of bearing heavy weight on the hooks, so make sure they are secure by fastening them into the studs on the wall. Use a stud finder to locate the studs and mark them with masking tape to make installation quick and easy.
Step Eight: Hide imperfect joints on painted moulding (not stained wood) by caulking the joints and painting over the caulk.
Step Nine: Cover nail holes for a nice finish with primer and then paint over each spot so that they're now unnoticeable.
Want to know the secret to getting moulding painted effortlessly and without ladders and step stools? You won't believe how easy this trick is! Click here for the tutorial trick!