I am lucky to be able to sew in a room dedicated to this purpose, with several spaces available, to sew, cut, assemble, with an ironing board that remains open, in short, there is no shortage of space.
This gives me ease, but also more opportunities to scatter my material.
But where did I leave my scissors, where did I put the tape measure?
If you're like me or on the contrary, if your space is limited and you need to tidy up
and condense all your essential tools at your fingertips, then this tutorial may be useful to you.
Having a machine underlay has several advantages.
In addition to being able to have all your essentials always in the same place at hand, it offers a decorative surface that can be coordinated with the decor of your room.
It's handy for picking up pins or storing your pliers as you go about your sewing.
It retains small fibers and scraps of fabric that often tend to scatter. You may buy them from the knitted fabric manufacturers online. Personally, I often brush at the end of a seam and collect all the small residues that used to fly all over the room.
So without further ado, I'll share with you how I do to sew my under-the-machine carpet.
You should know that it is a simple and accessible project, which requires little time to complete.
Ideal for beginners.
Preparation :
Cut a rectangle of fleece fabric, the measurements of the table you want to cover.
For me the choice is 70 cm x 50 cm because my machine has an extension table.
Cut a second rectangle of fleece the same width as your previous piece and 15 cm long. For me 70cm x 15cm.
This smaller rectangle is used to form the pockets attached to the large rectangle.
Also gather your other supplies, more or less 3 meters of bias, matching thread, pins.
Realization :
On the small rectangle, wrong side, fix and sew your bias along one of the long sides.
To do this, unfold your bias tape, fix the edge to edge of your fabric and pin.
Then you sew all along on the fold mark.
Then return the bias to the right side of your pinned work to sandwich it and topstitch 2 mm all the way.
So your rectangle has a nice finish, it is ready to be assembled to the mat.
To do this, place it, right side up, at the bottom of the large piece of fabric.
Pin the two rectangles together around the edge and sew the part that will form the pockets, all along the long side, at the bottom and on the 2 short sides (right and left).
Now form the pockets by sewing sections of the dimensions of your choice.
I chose 2 pockets of 20 cm wide and a larger one of 30 cm.
To create the pockets, simply sew a line on the front of the work, over the entire height of the small rectangle.
Now go to the finishes of your mat and place your bias around the entire outline of the work.
Pin on the back of the work sews, returns.
You can use an iron to make it easier to fold the bias cleanly and topstitch the entire bias at 2 mm.
For an ideal finish to your bias binding.
The angles are the most careful part, stop your sewing 1 cm before your angle, form the angle by aligning the unsewn bias to the adjacent side, form a beak that you can fold over and pin by aligning it on the edge that you just sewed.
You then resume sewing your bias on the new side, starting 1 cm from the angle you have just formed.
Once the 4 sides of the work have been sewn, fold the bias towards the right side, at the corners shape well with your fingernail so that the folds and the excess fabric make a nice diagonal in the corner of the corner.
Pin everything together and topstitch.
There you go, last step, install your creation under your machine and store the favorite tools that you want to keep close at hand.
